Taking off
5. Sitting in the lineup and taking off at an angle
Difficulty rating - tricky
So you've finally made it out the back and suddenly you're in a completely different world. The continual rumble of white water is no more, instead there is an eary calm.
1. Sit on your board, facing the horizon. You may like to use other surfers as a rough marker for the best place to sit. Relax, get your breath back and scan the horizon for the next set of waves.
2. As they approach (20m away or so), decide which way the wave is likely to break (this can only come with practice, but a rough guide is to look for the dark and light part of the wave - it should peel from dark to light). Spin your board around, angle in the direction of the breaking wave - i.e. if wave breaking to the left, angle nose to the left. Lie down and start paddling.
3. Increase paddle rate as you feel the wave approach, check left and right for other surfers already up & riding (don't go if they are!). As the board angles down the wave, pop up and lean forward.
4. Keep knees bent, lean into the wave and enjoy the ride!